Sometimes, something, someone or someplace is actually better than you imagined. We slipped out from around our rest area tree and headed south-west. We had read about Cape Keraudren, and saw it as a possible 2-3 day stay on our way to Port Headland. It was the shortest distance between the highway and the ocean, so, if the road was as rough as bags, it would be mercifully short lived. Three hours later we arrived at the turnoff and cruised along a brand new stretch of bitumen, all the way to the Reserve entrance. The Reserve is one of those cash in the envelope deals, but of course, who carries cash these days?
There were three main campgrounds to choose from and Tamika reckoned the beach site was the go (apparently emboldened by our recent success with Brian). We couldn’t see our destination till we rounded a small sand dune to be met by the irresistible combination of river, sand and ocean, and pretty much all to ourselves.
We set up on the river bank, deciding not to un-hitch. This would prove fortuitous later that night. I caught sight of the high water mark on the opposite bank. It seemed a little higher than the area we had parked on. As benign as the creek looked in the early afternoon sunshine, we had heard about the extraordinary tides on the WA north coast.
Checking the tide charts, the peak was at 12:16am, so I thought it prudent to check around 11pm to see what was going on. We chillaxed for the rest of the day. A bit of swimming without the crocodiles (finally!), and general lazing about.
My internal alarm went off just after 11pm and I took a look outside. Yes the creek was up and the volume of water zipping by was disconcerting. Of course everything seems disconcerting in the middle of the night. In the space of twenty minutes the level had risen another half a metre, lapping at the very rim of the river bank. Still an hour till full tide. And then, it started. The incoming tide oozed over the rim, slowly snaking its way across the rock platform we had perched on. Forty minutes to full tide. This water python had us surrounded. It became a calculated risk, a race against time, stay or move to higher ground. Our caravan had become literally an island in the stream. In the end, and not like me at all, we decided to move twenty metres to slightly higher ground. It was a rare case of respecting the unknown unknowns . Once the deadline had passed, we figured out that we had been in no real danger, but it was an 8.5 on the Disconcerted Scale. We moved halfway back to where we were the next morning and that night, slept through the whole thing.
Despite the midnight drama, I was up before dawn, camera in hand and headed for the beach. Once the sun pokes over the horizon, it’s all over for photographers. As it was, I’d almost left my run too late but still managed one keeper.
Tamika spent most of that day feeding the fish and later that afternoon, the midgies. We counted fifty bites just around head and shoulders. With midgies, you don’t feel the bite until it starts to itch about four hours later. Poor Tamika, she must emit some kind of neon sign ‘all you can eat†pheromone.
We did have company but everyone gave each other plenty of room, at least 50 metres. There were a couple of vans further round, right on the beach. A campfire would have been great, but Tamika was, by this time, cowering under the sheets.
We ended up staying three nights. My greatest little indulgence was around midday. The day tide was at its highest and I could just step outside the van and take a running jump straight into the swollen creek – just like having a private infinity pool.
On the way out we did a quick drive around the various campgrounds so I could prepare a campsite report for On The Road RV. While we thought we had scooped a perfect location, the real show was up on the headland overlooking Boat Ramp Bay. Acres of space and of course, a boat ramp. Vans were lined up like ships at anchor. Stunning views, a steady breeze and a walk out to the reef at low tide. You would be trading off a little privacy, but probably worth it. Oh well, maybe next time.
