The West Australian coast is truly spectacular, from blowholes to white beaches to coral reefs. This sweet siren’s call can easily lure you along the coast roads all the way from Broome to Geraldton. However there are times where you need to pull away and take a look at the inland of this huge state.
The strong prevailing winds had forced us away from Ningaloo Reef and down to Carnarvon and, with an unchanged forecast, we went looking for a few days inland. Kennedy Ranges is a 500klm round trip diversion but the reports we had made it an appealing side trip. The run-out from Carnarvon was an easy run. Carnarvon would turn out to be a convenient hub for a number of adventures.
We arrived at Gascoyne Junction on a very hot early afternoon with plans to push on after a quick bite. The Visitor Centre let us down gently. No, the plunge pools were empty and you could add five degrees to the temperature. It didn’t take much convincing to take up the suggestion of spending the rest of the day at the local caravan park WITH pool. The caravan park is also the servo, the general store and the pub. It feels a bit strange walking through the bar in your boardies and a towel.  The pool closes at 5pm just in time before the hotel opens for a few hours each night.
We headed out just after 8am the next morning and it wasn’t long before we were on the dirt. It’s 60klm to the turnoff and, just for once, the road conditions were excellent – hard surface, no corrugations. We ‘barrelled’ along at 60klm to the turnoff, the Kennedy Ranges looming on our left. The last nine k’ in were more like what we had come to expect, but we’ve learnt to have at least one set of wheels on the verge or to follow tracks down the side of the road for less bump n’ grind.
There are three main gorges fairly close to each other. We headed for Temple Gorge and set up. Even though it was ten degrees cooler than the day before, you could still hear a faint sizzling noise coming from the floor of the gorge.Â
We waited till mid-afternoon before attempting the walk, noting that it was rated moderate, and anticipating the sun would soon be behind the cliff tops. Well, wrong on both counts. The tract was more for mountain goats and antelopes and the sun hung like the sword of Damocles above our heads. Pretty soon we were appreciating what the inside of a convection oven might feel like. Oh, we persevered, don’t get me wrong, but finally with no temple in sight, confronted with a boulder the size of a shipping container and an arrow pointing up, we decided enough was enough. We were for once defeated and trudged back to the van. We may have pushed on if the plunge pool at the base of the waterfall had water in it, but not a Hurcuelean effort to stare at an empty hole.
I had better luck, clambering up an escarpment to a large overhang that ran around the bluff. The view was stunning and I also got to see that Alex (2005) and Toby (2007) had also made the climb.Â
For the geologists out there, the chance to see lava pipes in situ, and pick up a piece of ancient volcanic Australia is almost irresistible.
Tamika made good use of the fire pit and we tucked into a lamb roast. The wind hadn’t deserted us entirely, but with the sun gone, the cool breeze was much appreciated.
The next morning we packed up and drove a couple of kilometres around to Honeycomb Gorge. Now, THIS was doable. A short easy walk had us at the base of the waterfall and the amazing honeycomb rock formations. I can only imagine what this would look like after a good storm front. But it’s a trade-off –  we might not see some things at their best, but we’re not following a conga line of RV’s to these destinations and living in the lap of neighbours.
On the way back to Carnarvon, we stopped at Rocky Pool, only four k’s off the main road. Rocky Pool is a long dip in an otherwise dry river bed. Nice to cool off and break the drive.Â
It had been a big three days, but no rest for the wicked. The next day we re-stocked and headed out to Quobba Point, just up the road, metaphorically speaking.            Â